Ambers, Chypres & Fougères

muraya-paniculataEach of my perfumes reflect the year and season in which it was born. I love the idea that change is ever-present, it is an inevitability of life and therefore, we do not need to keep smelling of the same fragrance… year in, year out. The freedom to express the diversity of being alive in the world, moving through the wonders of change through natural perfume is, for me, sheer bliss.

Teone Reinthal Natural Perfumes are intensely lush florals blended with dark, earthy aromas and are composed in 3 fragrance styles: Oriental Ambers, Fougères & Chypres. The mesmerising experience of wearing these fine fragrances is like enjoying a slow walk beside the drifting, hypnotic magic of Murraya Paniculata in a summer rain-shower at dusk.



Chypre is the name of a family (or concept) of perfumes that are characterised by an accord composed of citrus top-notes, a middle centered on cistus labdanum and a mossy base-note derived from oakmoss. The term chypre is French for Cyprus, and goes back to Francois Coty who created his famous perfume Chypre in 1917 from fragrance materials that came predominantly from Mediterranean countries. Coty’s Chypre became the most typical representative of a whole family of related fragrances, although perfumes of similar style had already been created throughout the 19th century. The chypre concept is characterised by the contrast between the fresh citrus accord and woody-oakmoss; often patchouli is considered an indispensable element as well.

Perfumery Amber – the base of many oriental perfumes (Shalimar, Coco, Opium, Youth Dew, L’Ambre Des Merveilles etc) is a sweet, rich accord of labdanum and vanilla – so called, because the golden color of the blend resembles the semi-precious amber jewel. Sweet and voluptuous, perfumery amber is quite versatile, and whenever one encounters a fragrance named Amber or Ambre, it is likely to be a warm, vanilla and labdanum based blend. Labdanum, a resinous material obtained from the Mediterranean species of rockrose (Cistus ladanifer or Cistus creticus,) smells rich, leathery, smoky and sweet. Its warm incense undertone lends it a dusky, sombre quality, while the top notes are reminiscent of freshly cut wood, offering an interesting bright counterpoint. Although a beautiful and complex material, it is heavy and opaque, with a tendency to easily overwhelm other facets of the fragrance. Yet, rounded out with vanilla and other sweet woody notes, labdanum based accords become radiant and sensual.

Fougères are made with a blend of fragrances: top-notes are sweet, with the scent of lavender flowers; as the more volatile components evaporate, the scents of oakmoss, derived from a species of lichen and described as woody, sharp and slightly sweet, and coumarin, similar to the scent of new-mown hay, become noticeable. Aromatic fougère, a derivative of this class, contains additional notes of herbs, spice and/or wood. The name originated with Houbigant Parfum‘s Fougère Royale. This perfume, created by Houbigant owner Paul Parquet, was later added to the scent archives known as the Osmothèque, in Versailles, France. Houbigant re-introduced this fragrance in 2010. Perfumes of this type are especially popular as fragrances for men. Many modern fougère perfumes have various citrus, herbaceous, green, floral and animalic notes included. The most common additions to the basic fragrance blend include vetiver and geranium. Bergamot is often present to add sharpness to the lavender top-note. (with thanks to Wikipedia)

Although I have produced many, only a precious few do I call ‘mine’. Each tells a story that deeply speaks to me of qualities such as gentleness and love, power, pure animal instinct, creative self, vulnerable self, pristine moments of quiet reflection or the full stride of confidently commanding centre-stage. The aromatherapeutic element of natural perfume supports each of my moods, the ups and downs of my own life force.